Exploring the Nature of Cooking

For some individuals, cooking serves merely as a means of preparing meals and providing nutrition. However, for others—like myself—it is an art form. Perhaps this stems from my Italian roots; indeed, Italians have a deep love for food. When asked about the ideal amount of salt for a tomato sauce, my response is always instinctual. The role of experience in cooking cannot be overstated. I learned the art of flavor pairing by observing my grandmother and mother cook throughout my childhood. But are there universal principles that dictate what makes food enjoyable and palatable?

Recently, I watched Shokugeki no Soma (Food Wars!), a shonen manga and anime that features quirky teens competing in culinary challenges. The show is entertaining, and the recipes are presented with meticulous detail, including explanations of various culinary techniques (from the Maillard reaction to using onion enzymes for meat tenderization). The essence of taste boils down to two fundamental rules: minimize bitterness and balance the other four taste categories—sweet, savory, salty, and sour. This is the crux of cooking.

During the judging of dishes in the show, one term is frequently mentioned: umami. What exactly is umami? Ingredients like tomatoes and cheese are among the richest sources of umami!

Umami, meaning "delicious taste" in Japanese, was first introduced as a distinct flavor by chemist Kikunae Ikeda in 1908. It is characterized as a savory taste, and its classification as a basic taste alongside sweetness, saltiness, sourness, and bitterness has been the subject of much discussion. Our taste receptors are particularly attuned to umami flavors, often described as "meaty" or "brothy," due to the detection of glutamic acid and nucleotides such as guanylate and inosinate. Foods like cheese, tomatoes, and mushrooms are abundant in glutamate, while yeasts, fish, and meats are rich in guanylate. Dried mushrooms serve as a prime example of foods rich in inosinate.

Numerous delectable dishes are rich in umami, but many also have varying levels of sweetness or sourness. So, what makes umami unique? While it’s easy to recall a soup that was overly salty or a cake that was too sweet, it's difficult to think of a dish that was excessively savory or tasty. We have evolved to be sensitive to bitter and sour flavors as they often signal toxicity, leading us to detect high salt concentrations that can render a meal unpleasant (likely because excessive salt is unhealthy). In contrast, an abundance of umami can enhance a dish's flavor profile; when combining ingredients with different umami sources, the overall taste experience can exceed the sum of its parts—this is known as umami synergy.

In Nordic cuisine, meat and mushrooms create a harmonious pairing, while in Italian culture, yeast in bread complements Parmigiano Reggiano. Japanese dashi, made with dried fish and glutamate-rich seaweed, exemplifies perfect pairings that our ancestors cleverly utilized to maximize umami synergy.

What Makes Pizza So Special?

Although the title may seem provocative, pizza isn’t necessarily the ultimate food, but it ranks among the most exceptional dishes alongside many others that achieve a fine balance of flavors. With an average of over 43 million pizzas consumed daily in the U.S., and even pizzas being delivered to space, it’s clear that this dish holds a special place in our hearts. Today, we’ll focus on the queen of pizzas: the Margherita.

Let’s delve into what makes pizza an exceptional culinary creation. I've already mentioned that the essence of cooking lies in balancing sweet, savory, salty, and sour tastes. The ingredients of a classic Margherita consist of dough, tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, a pinch of salt, olive oil, and basil. Now, let's break down these components and their associated flavors.

The Pineapple Debate: A Flavor Misstep?

Pizza is celebrated for its balanced flavors; however, there’s always a risk of it leaning too far into acidity. With the tomato sauce being the greatest source of sourness, it’s worth noting that pineapple also possesses acidic properties. Thus, I present my science-backed rationale for why pineapple on pizza may not be ideal!

I must admit, my bias stems from my personal distaste for pineapple, whether on its own or atop a pizza. So, consider this a disclaimer as we explore the facts.

Pineapple is rich in malic and citric acids—the same acids found abundantly in tomatoes. When pineapple is added to pizza, it can overwhelm the dish with excessive sourness. The issue isn't merely the presence of pineapple; rather, it’s the combination of pineapple and tomato sauce that creates an imbalance.

Italians don’t object to using pineapple in cooking; in fact, popular Italian cooking sites feature numerous savory pineapple recipes. However, none of these recipes incorporate tomato sauce. Our taste buds have evolved to recognize meals with balanced nutrients, which is why an excess of acidity is generally unappealing.

Now, I can hear some of you exclaiming, “But I love pineapple on pizza!” That’s perfectly fine. Humans can develop a taste for certain flavors, even those that might seem unpalatable at first, such as coffee or chili peppers. Taste is inherently subjective and complex, making it impossible for me to declare anyone wrong for their preferences. Moreover, I’ve omitted numerous factors that influence taste, such as aroma, texture, temperature, and presentation. I aimed to clarify why some Italians might cringe at the thought of pineapple on pizza: they are simply adhering to the culinary principle of taste balance. Nevertheless, I still maintain that every time someone orders a Hawaiian pizza, an Italian somewhere probably winces in agony.

Is Culinary Chemistry Necessary?

In short, no. When I cook, I don't consciously consider the chemical reactions or enzyme activities taking place. However, having a basic understanding can help identify what went wrong in a dish, what flavors may be out of balance, and what adjustments can be made in future attempts. Ultimately, experience is key.

So, take a break, stretch a little, put on your oven mitts, and start experimenting with science in your kitchen. Just remember, if you decide to add pineapple to your pizza, you may be putting my culinary existence at risk.

If you found this exploration of the chemistry and biology behind one of the world's most beloved foods enjoyable, you may also appreciate these resources:

• The Umami Information Centre: A website that elucidates umami, features various research studies, compiles a database of umami-rich foods, and even offers delicious recipes.
• The Association of Original Neapolitan Pizza: Discover fascinating insights into pizza traditions and a list of certified Neapolitan pizzerias worldwide.
• Chef VS Science: An entertaining culinary challenge filled with scientific facts, exploring cooking techniques through a chemistry and physics lens (available on Netflix).
• Food: Delicious Science: A science-focused food series I’ve recently started binging, and it's off to an excellent start (available on Netflix and Amazon Prime).

Chapter 2: The Perfect Food in Action

Watch "Why Is Pizza The Perfect Food? ft. The Domestic Geek" for a fun exploration of the culinary wonder that is pizza.

Chapter 3: The Pizza Debate

Check out "Food Theory: New York Pizza is BEST... and I Can Prove It!" for an insightful discussion on the pizza debate.